The South Ridge Route of Ingalls Peak.
The South Ridge Route follows the sky from left to right.

Ingalls Peak 7,662' !

Cold,rain, and snow in the Cascades!



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2001 Trip Reports!


Dave, Mike, and Doerte at Ingalls Pass
Dave, Mike, and Doerte at Ingalls Pass, 6,500' and 35 degrees!




Dave belaying Mike on the 5.6 center crack
Dave belaying Mike on the 5.6 center crack!



Doerte rapelling down!
Doerte rapelling down! It is blowing and snowing!

Ingalls Peak 7662’ Trip Report June 09, 2001

The trailhead is at the end of the North Fork of the Teanaway River road. There are many nice free camps along the road in, but little firewood. We were here two years ago and could not even get to the trailhead because of the snow. Our team, Doerte, Dave, and I, were on our way at 6 am.

The trail begins at 4,243’ and soon forks. The left fork going to Esmerelda Basin, the right going to Ingalls Pass and Longs Pass. It was raining and misting off and on as we ascended, but we hoped the conditions would improve as the sun warmed things up. Lots of switchbacks! Very dry in the summer, but not on this day!

The junction for Longs Pass, 6,250’, 2 miles up the trail, is still buried in the snow around 5,000’. If one didn’t know where to go they would miss it entirely. A few days of warm, sunny weather will have it melted out. Longs Pass is the shortest way for climbers to do big Mt. Stuart 9,415’. To Ingalls Pass, the trail begins a long contour to the west. There are great views of Esmerelda Basin and the Esmerelda Peaks.

After 3 miles, at 6,500’, Ingalls Pass was clear of snow, but cold and windy. We rested, ate some snacks and admired the views of the valley below. My thermometer showed 35 degrees! Both Ingalls Peak and Mt. Stuart were well in the clouds, as weather moved in from the west. We stashed hiking poles, water, and a few other items we didn’t need, and took out our ice axes. The north side of the pass was still snowed in and would be good skiing for a while yet.

The route only lost a few feet as it contoured and climbed toward and above Ingalls Lake. There was a couple parties camped in Headlight Creek Basin along the way. Ingalls Lake is just beginning to ice out, and the beautiful blue water was seen around the melted edges of the lake.

We headed up to the pass between the North and South Peaks, moving quickly through a debris field of a cornice from high above that had broken and tumbled down. Soon we were at the base of the climb up to the peak. It was cold and windy, with a bit of snow off and on. There was a dusting of new snow. Ingalls has three distinct summits. The North Peak, at 7,662’ is the highest. The South Peak 7,640’ is a scramble from the pass, and the East Peak, 7,500’

Becky rates the South Ridge route 5.2. Dave was jazzed and led the multi pitch route. He is such an excellent climber. This was his first multi-pitch lead, and he took us up the 5.6 center crack. Yikes! We made it to near the crux of the climb under the yellow wall when we bailed after the third pitch. It was harder than we expected. I was extremely cold at the belay stations. A stronger party of four passed us and made the summit, even through a brief snowstorm, where they disappeared from sight for a while. Three rappels, including one with two ropes brought us back down to the base. Total fun!

As expected, on our descent back to Ingalls Pass, the weather cleared, the skies turned blue, and even Mt. Stuart became visable. Stuart is such a weather magnet! Every cloud heading east makes a stop at Stuart. We met two Canadians heading for a go at the West Ridge, a 5.9 route with 20 pitches, and looked for friend Dan Cervelli and his team heading for the southeast route.

We were back at the Trailhead by 6pm for a long 12-hour day, making plans to come back again, with better conditions and try the 5.2 route again.

This website is a photographic and descriptive resource of routes and climbs, not a hiking guide. By using this site the viewer releases the creator from any and all liability. Hiking/climbing is a potentially dangerous activity and requires proper equipment, skill, experience, preparedness and awareness at all times.

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