Parashant to Lake Mead!

River Mile 198.5 to River Mile 278 and the Grand Wash Cliffs

March 01/10, 2003

The end of a long journey from Lees Ferry

 




 

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Day 1 Saturday March 01 Trail Canyon and Parashant Canyon

Mike Quinn and I spent 4 long hours getting to the trailhead from St. George Utah. It is only about 60 miles, but we were traveling over muddy dirt roads covered in 4-12 inches of new snow. The high point on the road was over 5,000’ and it continued to snow off and on all morning. We prayed the roads wouldn’t get worse and our prayers were answered.

Mt. Trumbell, or Bundyville as it is now more commonly called is little more than a crossroad at the end of Main Street Valley. In the 1920’s and 1930’s this was home to 1500 hardy folks attempting dryland farming. John Green says that the settlement began in 1916 and homesteaders were allotted 640 acres of land. It is amazing that the homesteaders were able to hang on as long as they did, but all soon moved on to St. George and other more hospitable areas. The Bundy’s were one of these families. They still live in the Southern Utah area.

We stopped and visited the Bundyville Schoolhouse. The original schoolhouse from the 1930’s was lovingly restored by volunteers and then shortly afterwards vandals burned it down! Not ones to give up, the volunteers came back again and rebuilt the schoolhouse from the ground up! Inside is a beautiful hardwood floor, photos, and relics of the era. There are a few houses near Bundyville but I don’t know if anyone lives there full time.

From Bundyville we were making fresh new tracks in the snow. Mike and I made many wrong turns and explored almost every road before we finally found the right one to Trail Canyon. There are no signs at all, so all navigation is done by either map or road log. I found the "Grand Canyon Jeep Trails I" by Roger Mitchell and published by La Siesta Press to still be the best. Very little has changed since this little book was published in 1977. La Siesta Press also published Harvey’s Guides.

Mike Quinn and I finally arrived at the old miners cabin site just past Mule Point Pond. Just beyond is an excellent viewpoint looking down into Trail Canyon at about 5,500’. The road descends into the canyon here and is 4-wheel drive only. Even though we had 4-wheel drive, we thought it best to not descend since the road was covered in 6 inches of snow.

The end of the road, and the beginning of very long walk. The top of Trail Canyon! I was very happy to have the snow since I knew the potholes would be full of clean fresh water as I needed them.

It started to snow as I packed up my rucksack. I put on my Gortex rain jacket and after a goodbye to Mike Quinn started walking down the road into Trail Canyon. It was 12 noon. Bruce McIntyre estimated it would be about 18 miles to the Colorado River. I was a little worried about Mike Quinn’s return trip across the Arizona Strip back to St. George in the snow and mud. The worst case would be that he would have to stop and wait until it froze during the night before he could continue.

Following the road I soon left the friendly pinon and juniper forest. I descended through the Kaibab Limestone, Coconino Sandstone, and the Hermit Shale 2,000’ and out of the snow. At three miles big Parashant Canyon comes in from the right. The old road continues to follow the bottom of the wash. At nine miles, the road leaves the wash and goes through the Hermit Shale and continues another 10 miles to the old Copper Mountain Mine. I could see Whitmore Point high above on the left.

Copper Mountain Mine is a popular ATV trip, but can also be reached by jeep or mountain bike. From the mine there is easy access to Andrus Canyon and Parashant Canyon. Prospectors first arrived in the area in the late 1800’s but little paydirt has ever been found. The last I heard, Exxon had rights to the mineral leases in this area and were interested in uranium. I hope the recent protections of the last administration can withstand the current attacks. I come across a few mining relics, a rail, and pits of hose. There was a hose of wire across the narrows at one point.

Back in the bottom of Parashant I began following cattle trails and the bed of the wash as I continued to the Colorado River. I came across three herds of cows, but saw almost no grass. Between the drought of recent years and the over-grazing there is very little growing. I was surprised the cows could find anything to eat. They looked healthy.

The Grand Canyon Trust is working hard to buy grazing rights in the new National Monuments. Going through the last barbed wire gate into the Grand Canyon National Park, I was surprised to see one stray cow on the park side of the gate. Without my pony I could not herd him back where he belonged. It is doubtful the cowboys will go very far into lower Parashant looking for her.

Parashant is easily hiked and the going is fairly fast. There are nice narrows in the Temple Butte Limestone. I found a couple of potholes along the way, but normally this canyon is completely dry. Nearby springs such as Frog Spring and Cedar Spring might not be reliable or only be muddy seeps unless they are dug out.

I hiked until after dark and then made camp near a nice pothole in the bed of lower Parashant. I had hoped to make it to the Colorado River, but I knew I was close. I felt good with the first day. I had told Mike Quinn that it usually takes a couple of days for the pack to settle in.

Day 2 Sunday March 02 Parashant Mile 198.5 to Granite Park Mile 209

An easy hike got me to the Colorado River at 9 am. I found it flowing high and muddy from the recent storms. There is nice campsite on the right side of the wash at the River. From here a route begins to climb Mollies Nipple and gain access to the Shivwits Plateau. Looking upstream I remembered one of my hardest days ever in the Grand Canyon coming down from Whitmore at river mile 187.5 to Parashant at 198.5. That 11 miles is some of the toughest hiking in the Grand Canyon! Route finding, climbing, traversing, and impenetrable mesquite make it very challenging. It is so tough, that most parties spend two hard days completing that 11 miles.

The trail that beckoned me last year was finally under my feet as I headed downstream and left friendly Parashant Canyon. Harvey says, "A burro trail avoids the mesquite by generally following the base of the river cliff. With some interruptions, this trail, probably built by prospectors and most recently maintained by wild burros, goes along for about forty river miles." I soon found out that this "trail" is mostly gone now and not better than a deer trail at it’s best. The interruptions were much longer than the trail. It required a lot of concentration and focus to stay on it, and often I found myself above or below the trail. Many other places it was simply washed out. As usual, rounding washes it was always gone. On the flats it would come and go. The trail is no longer maintained by the wild burros, only by an occasional deer. I found huge greasewood, ocotillo, barrel cactus, and other plants growing right in the middle of where the trail used to be. Essentially, the "trail" is gone now.

Looking back upriver to Parashant on the second day. At first the route tries to follow the River, but has to go up and over big lava bluffs. Finally the Tonto starts to appear, and travel along the River becomes impossible.

There are a few pictographs at Mile 201. I found a few bunde jars and a mining pry bar while in the tamarisk between Mile 206 and Mile 207 on what used to be a beach. They are not obvious in the middle of all the tamarisk.

The famous bunde jars and a pry bar! I was very lucky to stumble across them in the brush! Who left them here?

The route generally stays away from the water and above the mesquite and tamarisk jungle until Mile 210. Up and over two lava bluffs took me to Spring Canyon 8 miles below Parashant. Spring Canyon was beautiful, and brushy, but flowing with clean, cold, clear water. I had to go up to pass Kolb Rapid at Mile 205 as the rapid is pushed right against the cliff. Kolb Rapid is a challenge to run at any river level. It would be fun to see the river parties go through. Harvey Butchart found a route up 205 Mile Canyon from the Rapid to the Esplanade.

One mile before 209 Canyon the route went up again. I was able to descend easily off the nose into Mile 209 Canyon, opposite Granite Park to camp above the rapid. A beautiful place, Granite Park is wide open with lots of sky and stars visable. I found an old worn out horseshoe lying in the sand. Jorgen Visbak and two friends have come down 209 Mile Canyon from the Plateau above to the Colorado River.

Day 3 Monday March 03 Granite Park Mile 209 to Mile 221

Leaving 209 Mile Canyon, it wasn’t long until what is called the "Tonto" appears. This is not really the same Tonto platform as in the heart of the canyon, but it is also Tapeats Sandstone. It was a relief to be on the Tonto, and away from the horrible brush. It was fast going compared to the brush. At the river, the Lower Granite Gorge begins, and makes travel along the river impossible. The Tonto rises to 1800’ above the river. Mile 217 Rapid was big. I could hear the roar of the water from a long ways off.

Trail Canyon works all the way to the Shivwits Plateau above. A great trip would be from Kelly Tanks on the Shivwits Plateau, down to the Colorado River. There are many sights in the area to visit. Stanley Spring is a fine pool in the Redwall. An old trail, the Snyder Mine Trail goes from the Spring to the Snyder Mine. The prospectors were digging a shaft looking for copper ore. There is evidence that they worked the area for a while.

Jorgen Visbak describes the possibilities, "Going from Trail Canyon (Mile 219) to the Snyder Mine requires a steep rock climb to circumvent a 200 ft "dry" water fall. This climb starts just West of the "T" in Trail on the 7.5 Minute Diamond Peak Quadrangle. I did this on a trip with Harvey who unsuccessfully tried another route. The old trail used to access the river from Snyder Mine descends, I believe, through 214 Mile Canyon. I haven’t tried this one."

Canyons such as Trail Canyon, 220 Mile Canyon, 225.5 Canyon became real challenges for me to get around. Although not technically difficult, sometimes I would spend two hours going around them only to find myself only half a river mile farther on. Jorgen tells me, "Harvey and I did not have problems crossing these canyons – we followed the river or used burro trails on the Tonto."

Many of the canyons would provide access to the river, but with the recent storms I had convenient potholes of water, as I needed them. I could not imagine having to journey down to the Colorado River every time I needed water! From Parashant, all the way to Diamond Peak I was traveling south and walking directly into the sun.

It was fun to see Diamond Peak appear ahead of me. What a great view! The route to its summit is a challenging dayhike from Diamond Creek. There was snow visable on the Rim beyond Diamond Creek. I camped in a wash at Mile 221 looking toward Diamond Peak.

Diamond Peak, a big Barrel Cactus, and Mike from the west! A beautiful day. There is snow on the Canyon Rim above!

Day 4 Tuesday March 04 Mile 221 to Mile 233

More of the same on the Tonto. It was fun to look down at Diamond Creek and see the Hualapai boats lined up waiting for some customers. I remembered stopping there for lunch on our river trip in 1990, and going there with Charlie Bongo and Doerte to explore downstream. Most of the river parties take out at Diamond Creek now to avoid the slow water going into Lake Mead. With Pierce Ferry closed they would otherwise have to go all the way to South Cove, 20 miles farther on.

Most of the rapids below Diamond Creek were washed out at the high water from the recent storms. They were barely ripples as I passed them. 231 Mile Rapid, 232 Mile Rapid, 234 Mile Rapid, Bridge Canyon Rapid, Gneiss Canyon Rapid, 237 Mile Rapid are all more difficult at low water, and decrease in difficulty as the water level increases. On our river trip in 1990, with low water they were all short, but very exciting.

232 Mile Rapid is the scene of an amazing story. On July 02, 1966 Jorgen Visbak, Homer Morgan, and Paul Morgan lost power in their 17’ Fiberglass Boat, powered by a Volvo engine. They had been on trip upstream from Temple Bar to (a few miles below) Diamond Creek. On the return trip the boat hit a submerged rock at Mile 232 and immediately started sinking. They were all swimming, Homer hung on to the boat and soon drifted out of sight while Paul and Jorgen went ashore. After a short rest they proceeded downstream walking and swimming (Paul had no shoes on) and spent the night on a sandy beach. The next day they continued downstream – mostly walking (Paul panicked in the water), until the spotted Homer and the boat which had gotten stranded on the rocks at Nice Rapid. Homer had written a distress message and sent it down the river inside an ice chest. After eating three apples which was all the food left over, they salvaged three air mattresses from the boat and floated downstream headed for Separation Canyon where some food was cashed and from where they could probably get a ride out with a boat They floated all the way to just below 237 (I think it was 238)Mile Rapid where they were spotted by a search plane. The pilot said over the loud speaker that a boat would pick them up the following day, so they stayed put resisting the temptation to go after the food at Separation. The next day, on the 4th they were picked up by the Park Service Rangers in jetboats. They had gone 46 hours without eating, except for three apples!

Other days saw Jorgen, Harvey, and Homer floating the Colorado River below Diamond Creek on their air mattresses. To this day no one has begun to explore the Western Grand Canyon to the extent of Harvey and Jorgen.

I had a blister on the side of my right foot and on the big toe of my left foot from traversing the steep slopes. Sometimes I was following a Desert Bighorn Trail no wider than a couple of inches! One slip would of launched me off a cliff.

There was a cold wind and clouds for most of the afternoon. Near River Mile 233 I found a handy pothole and a wash out of the wind which made a nice camp. Down the wash below the Tonto was a nice overhang, but I stayed near the pothole. In the middle of the night I was awakened by cold raindrops. I put my gortex jacket over my head but eventually moved my sleeping bag into the handy overhang for the night. Charlie Bongo taught me years ago to always keep an eye out for overhangs for shelter and potholes of water.

Day 5 Wednesday March 05, Mile 233 to Separation Canyon Mile 239.5

Wednesday began as a beautiful dramatic morning. The rain ended and the clouds hovered around the rims, mixing with the sunrise. I started early, and enjoyed traveling in the cool weather. After Mile 236 the route flattened out and was easier. My blisters bothered me a little but I still made good time to the Bridge Canyon Damsite. There is not much left except a metal cable anchored to a small boulder. The other end disappeared far below the rim of the Tonto. It did not look safe and was not backed up. I guess it was considered safe at the time! Jorgen says that there was a cable car across the River at one time. There were a few boards and debris down below. There was also evidence of trail construction below.

Jorgen Visbak says, "I thought the cable was removed many years ago. At one time when Homer Morgan, Bill Mooz and I were floating by Bridge Canyon "City", Homer rode the cable car out to the middle. I don’t remember if he rode all the way across or came back the same way he went out. As the cable was sagging a lot we were worried that he might not have the strength to pull the car back up to the anchor."

At the Bridge Canyon Damsite looking upriver at the 230 Mile rapids, washed out by the high muddy water.

 

Mile 237 is where the Kolb Brothers found the empty Sweep Boat of Glen and Bessie Hyde in 1928. Known as the Honeymoon Couple, they disappeared below Diamond Creek. They did not take life jackets, believing they could swim their way out of any rapid. Their bodies were never recovered. Speculation as to what happened continues to this day.

The Tonto was fairly flat as it continued on to Separation Canyon. I had to go up Canyon about half a mile to find a place to descend to the bottom. It looked like I would have to go even farther up canyon to reach the Tonto on the other side.

On the Tonto looking up Separation Canyon! I had to go half a mile up Canyon to find a route down to the bed.

There was good water flowing in Separation, but it would come and go in the gravel. The tamarisks are only just starting to get a hold so it was pretty easy to follow the wash to the Colorado River. There was less sand and beach than I remembered. Washed away in the flood? It was only 3 pm, so I decided to take the rest of the day off, although I needed to continue to stay on schedule. I looked for a route up from the river to the Tonto, but it didn’t go. I was surprised that I didn't see any boats on the river.

The 3 men from the Powell Party were able to climb out the east fork of Separation in August 1869. There is a plaque in their honor at above the Colorado River at the mouth of Separation. The last group I have heard of doing a route into Separation included Mike Coltrin, John Green, Jim Olhman, Bob Packard, and others.

Homer, Bill and Jorgen walked out the Separation Canyon when they did a loop trip going down 209 Mile Canyon from Kelly Tank, swimming on air mattresses to Separation and then after leaving the heavy gear, walking out via the East Fork to the car at Kelly Tank.

Harvey Butchart found an amazing route up the Redwall and to the top of the Shivwits Plateau across the river from Diamond Peak. First he crossed the Colorado River on his air mattress. About one half a mile northeast of Diamond Creek, Harvey climbed up a ravine to the west of a big promontory. Near the top of the Redwall he found a smoke stained cave and a large window. He trekked across the Esplanade to camp at Kelly Tanks. The next day he descended Separation to the River, where he camped with the Dock Marston River Party. The next day, after being ferried across the river, he walked the Tonto past Bridge Canyon back to Diamond Creek! All in three days! Anyone up for that one? (Page 219 Treks III)

It was fun to spend the evening thinking of the Powell party, and the other trips that all had stopped at this magical place. All of the rapids are all long gone, but the water still moves fairly fast.

Day 6 Thursday March 06 Separation Canyon Mile 239.5 to Surprise Canyon Mile 248.5

Feeling rested and relaxed after my afternoon off at the Colorado River, I left at first light up the bed of Separation. I walked almost to where the bed touches the Tonto before I could climb back up to the Tonto. The going was more of the same. Some stretches were flat and made for fast going. The ins and outs tended to add a lot of mileage and effort. Most of the time I would go down and up rather than around. There were many loose and unstable rocks. I would step on the edge on the Tapeats Sandstone and it would break off. A big boulder that I used for a handhold on descent would start to move! I didn’t trust any step or hold.

Across from Spencer Canyon I heard some wild burros, and was able to spot 2 of them walking on the Tonto across from me. In 1980 and 1981 Cleveland Amory organized a round up of the wild burros after the Park Service management plan called for shooting them! Folks across the country adopted over 580 wild burros. Wouldn’t it be neat to know a descendent of those Grand Canyon burros?

Spencer and all of the side Canyons along the lower Colorado River were choked with brush from the river to the high water line. There was seldom any path through the brush. I did not get the impression that the river parties ever camp below Separation very often.

I was able to descend Surprise a half mile from the river. There was a nice flow of good water. I worked my way though the brush to the river, hoping to camp at the river camp. Unfortunately, I found both the river camps overrun by the brush. It was nice to be at the river, but no where to camp other than the wet mud bank. A little up the canyon was a fine overhang, and it looked like the mountain lions thought the same from the large amount of scat there. This was the first cougar sign I had seen.

Mike after a cowboy bath in the Colorado River! Afternoon at Surprise Canyon after along day from Separation. This was the only spot that was not brushy.

I walked up Canyon about two miles to where I could get out of the Canyon, and set up camp for the night in the bed of Surprise. Surprise connects with Twin Springs Canyon above the Tapeats and goes fairly easily. Jorgen Visbak and Harvey Butchart explored this area at length.

Day 07 Friday March 07 Surprise Canyon Mile 248.5 to Mile 262

As soon as I could see without the headlamp I started up to the Tonto. The days were getting hotter and I was glad to have the sun at my back. The Tapeats was slowly descending back into the Colorado River. I crossed Salt Creek near the bottom, but misread the route up, and had to descend back to the bed in the brush, and go upstream more than a mile until I could get back up to the Tonto.

Burnt Spring Canyon, River Mile 259.5, had an easy route off the Tonto to the mouth of the Canyon. It looked like the river parties stopped here often to visit the remains of the old cabin. Who was it that built a cabin in such a lonely place? There is a stove and chimney, and some sheet metal, but little else remaining. The cool, muddy river water was refreshing and tasted good to my dry throat. Once again the brush crossing across the Canyon was the hardest part. From above, I picked my route across the bed though the brush, and hoped I could climb up the other side. Covered in pollen and leaves, I climbed back up on the Tonto. Harvey says that "Burnt Spring Canyon offers an easy route from the River to the top of the Shivwits Plateau."

Tom Martin had told me that it was "easy going" from Mile 259 to Mile 263. The Tonto is almost gone now, and the washes are very easy to go around. Finally I was traveling nearly the same mileage as the river. I started seeing the commercial helicopters flying out from Las Vegas. The Hualapai provide them with places to land on the South side of the River. It was extremely noisy. From here to the Grand Wash Cliffs there was hardly a moment with out aircraft noise. I made camp at a wash with a pothole for the night.

Day 08 Saturday March 08 Mile 262 to Mile 278

This was the day I was supposed to meet Joe Motter at Noon at Snap Canyon. I was late, and there was little I could do about it except to keep moving as fast as possible. I started early, crossed Tincanebits Canyon and Dry Canyon at their mouth, now traveling along the mud bank of the river below the brush. Tincanebits Canyon offers a route from the river to the rim. Harvey said he could not find a route up Dry Canyon.

I passed the Bat Cave along the River. We had camped here in 1990 on a big dry mud bank. Now the mud bank was overgrown with tamarisk and brush. I dared not venture up to the Bat Cave! There are big tram towers visable on the South Side. In 1958 and 1959 U.S. Guano recovered the bat guano. They used the tramway to transport it to the Rim on the South side. Now, somewhere up there on the Rim is the Hualapai Indian Reservation’s "West Rim". The had a casino for a few years, but now only have a small campground, giftshop, and café for the tourists.

That green is not a grassy field but a jungle on top of a cracked mudbank. Past the Bat Cave I was forced to go up above the tamarisk and found this 3' cairn. It was faster going up high, but I didn't like being away from the water. Crossing the tamarisk jungle was absolutely horrible!

I followed the tracks of one mountain lion for a mile and then the tracks of many mountain lions! I never saw or heard them. I have never seen so many lion tracks! I saw many beaver lodges dug out of the mud bank. As the Lake Mead water level dropped they had to relocate their lodges closer to the water. Occasionally, they would slap their tail at the water as they swam by to voice their approval of me being on my way. I saw a Great Blue Heron.

I followed the mud flat along the river as best I could, but once in a while would have to climb the bank to avoid a washed out section, and fight the brush. Joe Motter calls this section a "tamarisk choked mudflat from hell!" Sometimes I had to walk backwards and fall through the brush to make any progress. When the lake receded it left great cracks in the bed. Some were 2-3 feet deep and 1 foot wide. I would take a step and the dirt would collapse sending me into the crack up to my waist. I lost count of how many times this happened.

There was a couple of travertine buffs to cross high. I would pick a route up the mudbank and through the brush. The going was extremely slow and tough.

Mountain Lion prints. Lots of them along the River in the mud. I didn't see or hear a Cougar on this trip. Did they see or hear me?

Many beautiful springs appeared, but tasted of minerals, and made the area around them extremely muddy. Both my boots were soaked and weighed 5 pounds each with all the mud on them. Joe Motter had been about 10 miles up the river to these springs so I knew the end of the Grand Canyon was very near.

Eventually I had to cross the brush again and travel high. I was almost unaware that I had left the Grand Canyon and reached the Grand Wash Cliffs! It was strange to see a view more typical of Nevada than of the Grand Canyon. I had finally completed a 20 year journey from Lees Ferry to the Grand Wash Cliffs! John Azar had recently completed the 278 river miles in 85 days! George Steck, along with his brother Alan, Robert Benson, and others completed the journey in 1982. How many others have gone all the way from Lees Ferry to the Grand Wash Cliffs?

I headed to the highest visable point, just south of Pierce Canyon to see if I could get an idea of where Joe Motter would be. I watched the sunset, but could not see the road from my vantage point. I guessed I was about 2 miles from where we were supposed to meet. I camped on the high point about 1,800’. I saw some ATV’s head away to the northwest, and a single vehicle’s taillights far in the distance. I could not make out the road, but could see the taillights fade away in the distance in the darkening light. I was sure I had missed Joe Motter!

Day 09/10 Sunday/Monday Colorado River Mile 278

Sure that I had missed Joe, I headed down to the river near Pierce Wash to wait for a boat to come along. None came all day Sunday. It was hot and the river dropped about 3 feet during the day. It was 60 miles of rugged dirt road with unknown water sources to Mesquite Nevada, so my best option was to stay by the river and wait for a boat to come down the river, the researchers coming up from South Cove, an adventurous pleasure boater, or Park Service to come along on a patrol. I knew my wife would report me overdue on Sunday evening.

My camp at River Mile 278, just outside the Grand Wash Cliffs looking back to the Grand Canyon! I spent a comfortable two days at this spot reflecting on my journey down the Canyon.

Monday morning I spread my stuff out so it would be easily visable. I had talked to River Ranger Chris Mingle and he had suggested to stay near the river if I ran into any problems. I spread out my bivy and sleeping bag, and hung my gortex jacket and fleece jacket in a dead willow tree for shade. Around 8:30 am I saw a red and white plane fly up Snap Canyon twice, and then head up the river to the Grand Canyon. He flew quite low, and I waved my blue shirt but he did not see me. If he had, he would of flown over a second time and tipped his wings.

I settled down to relax and wait. I practiced my signal mirror on the tour planes and helicopters with no success. Finally, a little after 2 pm, the Park Service Helicopter flew out of the Grand Canyon low above the Colorado River. I waved and they saw me immediately, circled overhead looking for a place to land. The country is very rugged, and there was no place for them to set the chopper down. I quickly packed up my stuff as I didn’t want to be any more trouble. As they hovered above the river, the Park Service Patrol Boat appeared as well.

"Are you Mike?"
"Yes, Can I get a lift from you?"
"Sure!"
"Thanks!"

The helicopter flew off, and we ran the low water of the river to South Cove, and then to Temple Butte Marina where they deposited me. Pierce Ferry is completely closed and nothing more than a huge field of tamarisks. The Lake level is down to 1154’ and still dropping. Normal is 1170’ to 1210’. Full pool is 1221’.

Postscript:

I really felt stupid when I learned that Joe Motter had waited for me all day Saturday and Sunday and I was at the river. If I would of gone the two more miles cross-country I would have met him as planned, although late. In retrospect, I should of made a trip out to Snap Canyon to see the end of the hike in advance.

I had an aggressive hike and actually came very close to staying on schedule. I was surprised that there was no one at all on the river for the ten days. I had been confident that I would see a boat party of some sort below Separation and get a ride from them.

A Satellite phone would have been a useful tool. I had ordered one, and scheduled it to arrive two days before I was due to leave Seattle. It did not arrive, and when I called they still had it sitting in their shipping area! It did not arrive in time. Next time I would allow a week to be sure it arrives.

I spent months planning the best trip possible, and then made the best of it. I was hiking on faith. I was blessed with all the full potholes of water I needed and relatively cool temperatures.. My pack weighed 21 lbs excluding food and water. I never carried more than 2 liters of water at a time.

I had almost no information about this area. Bruce McIntyre, Tom Martin, Bob Marley, Jorgen Visbak were able to help a little. Mike Quinn was a great help, driving over 200 miles each way in winter weather just to shuttle me to the Parashant Trailhead! Joe Motter is the expert on the Sanup Plateau and knows the western end of the Canyon. Joe said that the lower Canyon was a "tamarisk choked mudflat from hell!" I have never heard truer words. I could not have done this trip without his help. He did not want to leave Snap Canyon without me, and left water and a note. He drove over 200 miles round trip to do a shuttle for someone he had never met!

A few folks that I know, including one with NPS that had been in parts of the area were unwilling to communicate any information with me. I consider this irresponsible behavior. Keeping route information a secret does not deter most folks, and in fact puts them in danger. Harvey was always happy to provide route information to anyone who asked, and we should all heed his example. I hope in the future, if anyone is interested in this area, the Park Service encourages them to contact me directly so I can give them a true assessment of what this extremely remote, rugged area is like and what they can expect. It is not a place for the unexperienced. It is not a place for the unprepared. It is not a place to go in the warmer drier months. A National Park Service Permit is required.

The Park Service Search and Rescue did a great job and were very courteous and professional. Thanks to Ranger Chris Mingle for coming to get me, and to Terri Churchman of Temple Bar Resort for the early morning ride into Boulder City.

 


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